LAHOWIND » Just you, me, + the dog.

From sea to shining sea.

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^^our beautiful American flag always and proudly raised aboard s/v LAHO.^^ ©lahowind.com

Last year, we were total newbie boat owners when my sister and brother-in-law came to town for a fun-filled fourth of July weekend. We even managed to take our (new-to-us) sailboat out for a little day sail rendezvous off the coast of Naples, where we may or may not have >>rounded up<< after a small yet very gusty squall popped up out of nowhere. It was the first (and still only) time this has ever happened.

The feeling of rounding up…where the wind overpowers the ability of the rudder to maintain a straight course and the boat heels over rather dramatically…is not one I care to relive. Ever. I’m fairly certain we scared the living daylights out of my sister and her hubby and they’ll probably never sail again. Lol.

This year will be a little different from last year’s celebration. It’s the 4th of July here in the DR, but not ‘the’ 4th of July, if you know what I mean. Regardless, we’ll be celebrating in spirit from lovely Luperón with a cold Presidente in hand. After having sailed more than 1,000 miles over the past three months, let’s hope we’ve gained enough experience to not duplicate last year’s little rounding up debacle. ;))

Whether at home in Naples, Florida or off in some exotic Caribbean locale…I am overwhelmed at the thought of how fortunate we are to be free and able to enjoy the amazing experiences of this sailing journey.

Let the sea set you free! Happy 4th of July ya’ll!

PS – I packed a decent supply of sparklers on the boat (you know, just cuz), and today we may just have to break out some of those bad boys. ;))

>>Thanks for visiting LAHOWIND sailing blog! We’d love for you to get to know us and follow our story as we attempt to navigate a whole new world of sailing, as we cruise the Caribbean.

Mark and Cindy - s/v Cream PuffJuly 4, 2014 - 6:25 pm

Happy 4th!

Lara SpragueJuly 4, 2014 - 9:13 pm

Happy 4th guys!!

Tuesday Tell-Tales.

Lately, I’ve been having one helluva love-hate relationship with my sunglasses. Mostly hate. Just ask Jereme. He’s had to listen to me bitch about my shades for the past week or two.

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^^these SUPER light weight polarized Ray Bans used to be my favorite. nowadays they barely stay on my face they are so bent out of shape.^^

I am really regretting the fact that I only have two pair of prescription sunglasses on board and that they are getting more and more worn out from non-stop, around-the-clock use. They’ve basically melded into shapes that no longer even fit my face or even allow for tightening. It’s so bizarre.

I also hate that I forgot my old pair of Rx shades back home. Or misplaced them on the boat because they are definitely no where to be found. And let’s face it, the boat is only so big.

Oh and I also hate that I dropped my only non-Rx pair that my friend Jessica over at MJ Sailing gave me. :((( Sorry Jess! I was loving that pair, but they flew off on a wild dinghy ride back in Long Island, Bahamas in the middle of a super deep and super choppy anchorage.

I guess it’s more like a hate-hate relationship. Ugh.

I think it’s about time I purchased a few cheap pairs so I can stop complaining already. ;))

On a more positive note, Jer and I hiked the 27 Waterfalls of Rio Damajagua yesterday. And holy crap, talk about AMAZING!!! I am feverishly culling through a few hours of GoPro video and piecing together somethin-somethin for the blog. That experience was definitely one for the record books! …Even with the massive purple bruise now occupying the entire back of my left thigh. A souvenir from my first ever waterfall jump, I suppose. ;))

And side note, we haven’t forgotten about our plans for Puerto Rico. We’re still looking for a good weather window to make the jump, but in the meantime, we are having such a great time here in the DR there’s really no rush.

Happy Tuesday! xo.

>>Thanks for visiting LAHOWIND sailing blog! We’d love for you to get to know us and follow our story as we attempt to navigate a whole new world of sailing, as we cruise the Bahamas + Caribbean.

Jessica @ MJ SailingJuly 2, 2014 - 11:58 pm

Well that’s the last time I ever try and give you nice things. Haha, j/k those were totally cheap knock offs. But I’m glad you were liking them while they lasted. 😉

Exploding block + tackle.

It’s all fun and games until your jib sheet pulley explodes…while trimming the sail on a close haul tack.

I know I know, if you’re anything like me, you’ve probably already closed your browser window after reading ^^that^^ sentence. Lol.

Block? Pulley? Tackle? Um, no thanks. But let me try and explain our fun little sailing explosion in lamens terms. And don’t worry, I had to google all of these terms myself to even write this silly post. ;))

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Basically, a block is a pulley. Which is really just a wheel inside of a metal housing. You can run anything through that pulley…a rope, a cable, etc. and the pulley helps support the movement.

We have various pulleys around the boat supporting different lines.

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While under sail from Mayaguana, Bahamas to Provo, Turks + Caicos, we were trimming the jib after tacking for the, um I don’t know, millionth time. We were on close haul, requiring us to finish trimming the sail using the winch so that the jib would be as tight to the boat as possible. And hence, under a ton of pressure.

In other words, in order to get where we wanted to go we were basically sailing super close to the wind (so close that the boat is almost pointed directly into the wind). Trimming is just tightening or loosening the sail depending on where the wind is coming from. If a sail is too loose, it will flap around in the wind…and that’s no good. And a sheet is just the line you are pulling on to “trim” the sail.

Jer just so happened to be the lucky one trimming the sails this particular day. Ninety-five percent of the time it’s me doing the trimming work, so it sure was nice that it was him this time around.

As he man-handled that winch and cranked in the jib sheet tighter and tighter, it kept making a few odd sounds. You know, the squeaky ones you hear right before somethings about the break. ;)) I’m pretty sure at one point, we paused to look at one another and made the same “that’s weird” face.

The next thing you know, there was an insanely loud cracking, snapping, and simultaneously breaking sound that permeated the cockpit.

The jib sheet had forcefully ripped loose and flailed outward allowing the entire sail to spring loose. It all happened in a spilt second. And left us totally stunned to say the least.

The horrific snap-crackle-pop sound made it seem like we had lost the entire head sail or that the winch had exploded somehow. It took us about 5 seconds to realize that the crappy plastic block aft of the winch on the port side of the boat had actually broken and therefore allowed the jib sheet to violently spring loose from the pulley. Luckily, there was nothing between the pulley fair lead and the next fair lead (like the lifeline) because it would have ripped it right out.

Turns out, the white plastic sheave (the round thingamajig inside the pulley) had exploded. And the bolt that holds the sheave to the block had sheared right off.

There was no ‘fixing’ that thing. Fortunately, we had an identical one on the starboard side of the boat that wasn’t in use, so after getting our little situation under control, Jer immediately ran below deck, grabbed the necessary tools, and swapped out the two pulleys. Problem solved!

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You might be wondering why we even have a pulley on the port side of the boat?

Well, simply because if we allowed the sheet to come in at any other angle to the winch, it would rub on the teak and/or canvas. The block/pulley allows the jib sheet to run fair to the winch (i.e. not touching anything along the way).

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Let’s hope our new found ‘backup’ pulley doesn’t decide to follow suit and pop like the last one.

>>Thanks for visiting LAHOWIND sailing blog! We’d love for you to get to know us and follow our story as we attempt to navigate a whole new world of sailing, as we cruise the Bahamas + Caribbean.

A quick stop in the Turks + Caicos.

(Providenciales, Turks + Caicos)

Providenciales, or ‘Provo’ as it is commonly known, is the most tourist-focused of the Turks and Caicos islands, a chain of approximately 8 main islands (many more tiny islands) located south of the Bahamas and north of Hispaniola (the island of Haiti and the Dominican Republic).

By the way, it’s really mostly just Caicos (pronounced Cay-Cus by the locals). There’s North Caicos, South Caicos, East Caicos, West Caicos and lots of other Caicos islands…but the Turks are really just Grand Turk and Salt Cay. ;))

We rolled into the South Side Marina in Provo after a 24-hour sail from >>Mayaguana<<. The last 5 miles of the sail across the Caicos Banks in the early morning were brutal. We were beating straight into the wind and waves. It was a welcome relief to finally dock at a marina after such a long and arduous sail from the Bahamas. And an added bonus to plug in to shore power for the first time since we left Naples. It took us a few minutes to find and dig out our big yellow power cord, but man once we turned on our a/c, it was a beautiful thing.

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^^hello south side marina! so good to see you.^^

Although utterly exhausted, we managed to stay awake for the Customs and Immigrations guys who came to the marina to check us in. It was certainly nice not have to track them down by walking into town.

When entering the country, you can request a 7-day permit or one much longer, but also much more expensive. Our 7-day permit cost $65 for immigration and $15 for customs — that included overtime (for each fee) because it just so happened that the Monday we arrived was Queens holiday, what are the freaking odds? The much longer permit will run you upwards of $300 (just to check in and then you pay again to check out).

The customs and immigrations process in the Turks & Caicos is a little backwards if you ask me…why put such a high price tag on the entry fees and limit cruisers from staying more than a week? I mean, we would have kept spending money on the island if we were allowed to stay longer. On second thought, I guess the 7-day limit is a good thing. ;))

Immediately upon arrival at the marina, we were advised to leave Oliver safely on the boat while Customs and Immigration came to check us in. It’s apparently a “don’t ask, don’t tell” kind of pet import policy in the Caicos. So we heeded the advice of fellow cruisers and did just that. Oliver does however have all the >>necessary dog import requirements<< (i.e. Titer Certificate, etc.) to legally check in, but we were just fine with avoiding yet another costly pet fee, especially considering we were only visiting the country for a few days and Oliver wouldn’t be leaving the marina.

Even though we were limited to just a few days on the island, we weren’t going to let that stop us from packing in as much sight-seeing fun as humanly possible.

Our first night on the island we somehow managed to scrape together enough energy (still without having slept a wink in nearly 36 hours) to head over to s/v Quantum Leap, our neighbor boat, for happy hour and then down to Turtle Cove for pizza at >>Baci.<<

PS – the pizza was AMAZing. Just sayin.

Provo is too big of an island to really walk from one spot to the next, so we decided it was well worth $50 to rent a car for at least one day. We considered renting a scooter, but I’m so thrilled we ended up going with an actual car instead. Scootering would have been fun if we had stayed in just the downtown Grace Bay area, but motoring around the entire island wouldn’t have been nearly as fun. Plus, hauling $300 worth of groceries on a scooter would’ve just been downright hilarious. And stupid.

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^^hopefully we still remember how to drive.^^

Armed with our cute little Japanese Opa rental for 24 hours, we set out on a days worth of sight-seeing (and some errand running) fun! I let Jer handle the fun task of driving…on the wrong side of the road with the wrong side of the car (steering wheel was on the right). I was much better left to navigating us in and around the island using the little paper map the marina kindly provided us. We didn’t get lost once!

Since we picked up the rental car around 4:30PM, we headed out for happy hour at Coral Gardens, an adorable resort close to Grace Bay. They have a cute beach bar called ‘Somewhere,’ where we got to taste the local brew while watching the sun set.

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^^random outtake from coral gardens, but seriously is my hair getting more and more auburn-y red or is it me?^^
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^^somewhere…^^

We are big believers of drinking the local beer, wherever we go. And on Provo that beer is Turk’s Head. Made in a small brewery on the island, we discovered it at Coral Gardens, and, literally, had it at every meal afterward. We even picked up a 12-pack at the supermarket before heading south.

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^^we were bigger fans of the lager and light lager over the amber.^^

After a little happy hour pitstop at ‘Somewhere,’ we took the advice of Amos from Scooter Bob’s (the awesome car rental company we used), and chose to dine at Mis Amigas, a favorite spot of the Caicos locals and a great little Mexican joint close to Turtle Cove. The menu is small, but the food was the real deal and super cheap (for T&C).

The night didn’t stop there. We took our little rental Opa and headed down to Grace Bay for a little karaoke-watching at Danny Buoy’s. Talk about entertaining! ;))

The next morning, we immediately got our “errands” out of the way and re-provisioned at the local IGA Supermarket. The IGA store was comparable to Publix, but SUPER expensive. Regardless, we were thrilled to see a real grocery store with an actual produce department and stock up on some of our favorites items…ahem, diet coke.

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^^so good to see a normal grocery store.^^

Next on our sight-seeing agenda, we decided to hit up the main downtown touristy area, Grace Bay, which is centered on a seven-mile stretch of the island.

We checked out of a few shops, partook in more than one delicious ice cream treat, stopped in at the amazing island dog rescue and adoption facility (Potcake Place), and leisurely strolled around town.

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^^checking out Grace Bay.^^

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^^totally reminded us of Mercato in Naples.^^

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^^#adoptdontshop^^

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^^i mean, seriously, who wouldn’t want to adopt this face?^^

After leaving the Grace Bay area, we still had enough time in the day to squeeze in a visit to the >>Caicos Conch Farm<< on the northeast tip of the island. Let me tell ya, what an experience that was! I wrote about it >>here<< and highly recommend visiting the farm if you are ever on the island.

With only about an hour left before we had to return our rental car, we booked it over to the southwest side of the island to hit up Bugaloo’s Conch Crawl on the beach. We had heard from several folks that it’s a must-do while in Provo. Since we were running low on time, we decided just to grab a drink at Bugaloo’s. But if the food there is anything as good as my passionfruit mojito was, then I can see why it comes so highly recommended!

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^^passionfruit mojito, don’t mind if i do.^^

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^^the view at Bugaloo’s! those are tables you can sit at!^^

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^^so loved this little spot.^^

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^^just us plus the guy in blue. lol.^^

Sadly after Bugaloo’s, we had to return our rental car. But man did we get our money’s worth!

Later that night, we stuck around the marina and joined a few other boats for a cruisers potluck. With my famous pasta salad in tow and some cold beers, we had a great time sharing stories with fellow cruisers and learning a few things while there.

If we would have had a little more time in Provo, we definitely would have hit up >>Kite Provo<<. After meeting the owner Mike our last night, we wish we would’ve had the chance to take some awesome kite boarding lessons.

Our last day at the marina was bittersweet, mostly because I was dreading leaving the comfort of our nice air conditioned boat where I had been able to blow dry my hair every.single.day. :(((

You can read all about our sail from Provo to the DR once we left South Side Marina >>here<<. It was two-days full of tacking, scary police boats, and more!

>>Thanks for visiting LAHOWIND sailing blog! We’d love for you to get to know us and follow our story as we attempt to navigate a whole new world of sailing, as we cruise the Bahamas + Caribbean.

Making Miles: Turks + Caicos to the DR

(Luperón, Dominican Republic)

For the past few months, island hopping through the Bahamas has been a breeze!

No 24-hour passages. No crazy tacking jaunts to get us from point A to point B. No waking up mildly concerned that forecasted conditions may not hold.

But lately, life afloat has begun to grow by leaps and bounds. Longer distances to cover = longer hours at sea. Which ultimately equals overnight passages and real shift work.

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^^sails up and headed out into open blue water.^^

Any day before we are about to weigh anchor and set sail for a new destination, Jereme would probably admit to the fact that I can get a little grouchy. What can I say, I guess I just like routine? I like getting somewhere, settling in, and soaking up everything that new town has to offer, and not leaving (unless of course the anchorage sucks…then I’m ready to leave the second we get there). I suppose I can’t complain too much because each time we leave somewhere we love, we end up arriving in a new town or country only to be instantly energized and eager to explore that new area!

And the passage from Providenciales, Turks + Caicos to Luperón, Dominican Republic was no different. Okay maybe a little different because we were leaving the cushy comfort of a marina and having to disconnect from shore power and turn off our glorious a/c. That was in fact a major bummer. But we got our spirits up and ready, and it was time to move on!

Now, weather forecasts are another ballgame altogether when planning a passage.

We (mostly Jereme) check multiple weather sources multiple times a day for several days before we plan to set sail. We’re most fond of passageweather.com, windfinder, and the National Weather Service’s Offshore Weather Report. In this case, our 3-day planned weather window would allow us to leave Provo first thing in the morning on Day 1 with enough time to anchor once at Six Hills Cay (at the end of Day 1) and then again at Big Sand Cay (on Day 2), before making the 80-mile leap to the DR on Day 3. Forecasts called for 2 to 3 foot seas with 10-15 knot winds across the board. However, by the afternoon of Day 3 wave height and wind speed were forecasted to increase a tad.

In anticipation of semi decent winds (which usually turn out to be a little stronger than forecasted), we got underway first thing in the morning with a double reef in the main and the jib out full as we sailed our way out of Provo. We weren’t anticipating much excitement from our first day since we were only crossing the shallow Caicos Banks for a 40-mile sail to Six Hills Cay. However, after an unexpected visit from the rather large and super official looking Turks + Caicos police boat that came flying full speed at us (loaded with police guys) about 10 miles offshore, we knew we were in for a more exciting day than planned. Luckily, the police boat just interrogated us via radio for about 10 minutes before deciding we were legit (i.e. not smuggling drugs or haitians) and had legally checked in and back out of the T&C. Phew. (Side note: we must look super sketchy or something because we also heard the officials in T&C call over VHF for a visual on our boat the morning we were entering the country. Who knows…)

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^^the police boat speeding away after thoroughly interrogating us via VHF^^

We spent the next 24 hours tacking our little hearts out to get across the Caicos Banks. We were up against 3-foot seas and 15-knot winds coming from exactly where we wanted to go. So we tacked. And tacked. And tacked some more. Have I mentioned how much I despise tacking? And that I’m the one typically man handling the sails and doing all the trimming while Jer keeps us on course at the helm? We only tack out of necessity of course. To get 40 nautical miles by sailing 70 miles. Fun times.

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^^look at that awesome tack job — print screen courtesy of our iPad GPS.^^

After painfully covering about 70+ miles and zig-zagging our way across the Banks, we were way behind schedule.

So we said “screw it” to our pitstop in Six Hills Cay and opted to press on for Big Sand Cay by sailing through the night.

We couldn’t risk having the second leg of our passage take double or triple the amount of time, so we put away the jib, turned on the engine, and motor-sailed our way to Big Sand Cay, arriving about 26 hours after leaving Provo.

Even though we were exhausted, we immediately hoisted the dinghy and outboard so we could get Oliver to shore. I really wish we would have had more than a few hours to enjoy that little island. The beach was gorgeous and the beach combing on the ocean side of the island looked awesome!

Instead of sticking around for a night, we decided it would be wise to leave Big Sand Cay earlier than expected so we would have more than enough time to sail the 80 or so miles to Luperón amidst the night lees while still arriving first thing in the morning before the tradewinds kicked up on the north end of the coast. And simultaneously ensuring our good weather window didn’t change (for the worse) without us knowing.

Leaving Big Sand Cay that early meant we only had about 4 hours to nap, eat some food, and get the boat ready to sail again (i.e. engine checks and tidying up the cockpit, that sort of thing).

We pulled anchor at 4PM and had our sails up and motor off before we even left the Big Sand Cay anchorage. There was no way we weren’t going to take full advantage of our first sail in a southerly direction. Can you say “no tacking needed!”

^^Here’s a short clip of what the sailing conditions looked like from Big Sand Cay to Luperon.^^

Oliver and I took the first shift (4PM to 8PM). The hours flew by as we cruised a perfect course at a speedy (for us) 6 to 7 knots. By 8 o’clock, Jereme took over at the helm while Oliver and I went below deck for a cat nap. As the sun went down, winds must have picked up a bit because we were forced to reef the jib sail. The feeling of being overpowered in the boat is not one we typically care for, so we oftentimes opt to reef the jib (if we already have a reefed main) or put the head sail away altogether. We always keep the main up for stability.

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^^I hate crossing paths with these massive cargo ships.^^

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^^usually they are so far away you can barely spot them.^^

By nightfall, you could no longer see the direction or size of the waves, but boy could you feel them. I’m pretty sure Jer took a full wave to the face during his first shift that night. And later on in the early morning hours during my 1 to 4AM shift, I’m pretty positive I got smacked in the face by a fish! We found the little guy sitting right next to the captain’s chair the next morning.

After hours of trying (and semi successfully) keeping our course, we eventually opted to put away the head sail and motor sail the last 15 to 20 miles into Luperón. We had once again taken Bruce Van Sant’s advice…instead of beating into the seas, we reached across them and eventually motored up the coast in the early morning hours.

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^^the approach into Luperon, DR^^

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^^we were thrilled to see that hazy/foggy mountain horizon at day break.^^

You can almost taste the approach to land after an 80-mile sail. Especially as you are greeted by the very lush green mountainous island. Such a nice departure from the miles upon miles of white sand shores and turquoise waters in the Bahamas.

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^^the Dominican landscape is gorgeous!^^

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^^pulling into the Luperon harbor with our yellow quarantine flag proudly raised.^^

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^^a view of the harbor from Marina Luperon. our boat is somewhere on the right side hidden by the thatch roof.^^

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^^it’s gorgeous here!^^

After successfully carving out a little spot to anchor in an already packed anchorage and navigating the crazy red tape required to check in here in Luperón (more on that later), Jer and I immediately grabbed Oliver and dinghied to shore to explore this wonderful new country.

It was sensory overload as we walked off the government dinghy dock and into a town bursting at the seams with energy. The smell of dominican food cooking, the sound of spanish music blasting all around us, and the sight of friendly locals on motoconchos and street dogs running through the town center was all we needed to overcome our long passage here. We were ready to plop ourselves down with a Presidente Grande in hand at the first open air bar we found and take in this awesome little city.

And that’s just what we did!

Lots more on our time in the DR coming soon!

>>Thanks for visiting LAHOWIND sailing blog! We’d love for you to get to know us and follow our story as we attempt to navigate a whole new world of sailing, as we cruise the Bahamas + Caribbean.

[…] can read all about our sail from Provo to the DR once we left South Side Marina >>here<<. It was two-days full of tacking, scary police boats, and […]

[…] part of hurricane season. That was the goal at the very least, and here were are after making the >>200-mile sail<< from Provo, Turks + […]

[…] It was a super long (for us) sail. By far, our longest yet. The only passage that even comes close (but really doesn’t) was our >>overnight trip from Turks + Caicos to the DR.<< […]